Mount Galgara is 8,196 meters above sea level, making it the third highest mountain in the world, after Makomo Piri at 8,502 metres and Tautahi 8,878 metres, both on Iokeihiko. It is located on the south-western border of the island which separates it from the lower, uninhabited continent of Vasföld. The first recorded successful summit of a team was made in 1301 by a small group of Deerless mountaineers and indigenous porters.
Though the peak had many local names, the title 'Galgara' was not adopted until the late 1220's. Because of the huge variety of cultures residing on the island, surveyors from the mainland found it too difficult to favor one name above another in fear of causing social unrest. The name Galgara, in reference to King Gaiagara, was a fair compromise. Considering the popularity of Gaiagara Cults in uembian culture and the dramatic silhouette, the name was relatively fondly adopted.
Mount Galgara is part of the Didedic Batholith, which runs almost the entirety of the island. It is the highest above-ground point of the Meridian Ridge, although not the highest peak of the mountain range. Much of the mountain is formed from limestone. Geothermally heated hot springs surround the base of the mountain range, creating dramatic travertine terraces popular with travelers. Many local parks and reserves both protect and maintain these areas and encourage the healthy tourism by monitoring public bathing, hiking, and safe interactions. Only a few hot springs, generally small and distant from the populace, are too hot to bathe in.
Much of south face of Galgara is a reflection of the Vasföld tundra, making it nearly impossible to ascend or descend. The nothern and and western faces are more characteristic of alpine tundra, allowing for safer routes in the late spring and summer months.
Climbing History and Complications
Galgara's summit was climbed historically climbed by the Didedic population, though there are no written records of whether or not the summit was reached. In 1278, Hasasi Melak became the first non-indigenous person to successful summit the mountain. His success prompted little interest at the time, and it wasn't until the later 1290's that mountaineering teams began to mimic his success. The first recorded successful summit of an entire team was by Avi ájaroxtraño, a small team of five local porters, and three other Deerless mountaineers. Together, the party made nine out of the only 79 people to ever achieve the summit without supplemental oxygen.
Many claim that of the five highest mountains in the world, Mt Galgara is the deadliest. However, modern statistics do not include ancient expeditions of Piri and Tautahi, in addition, very few people have been able to use modern climbing equipment on these two peaks, making the comparison of statistics less relevant. Overall, close to 1100 different people have reached the summit of Galgara. Almost 60% of climbers turn back at the second base camp (about 6,500 meters), while 19% of people who summit will also die on the mountain. In contrast, Tautahi has had only three successful summit missions with only 19 ever attempted. Makomo Piri has had even fewer attempts, with less than ten on official record.
Much of the danger in climbing Galgara lies in altitude sickness. Mt Galgara's summit is above the altitude at which high altitude pulmonary edema or high altitude cerebral edema are possible, making acclimatization an essential process when climbing with or without supplemental oxygen. Most climbers plan to spend two to three months in their ascent in order to adjust to the high altitudes at various levels, thus avoiding the worst of altitude sickness.
Weather is another major concern. The peak is high enough to be hit by jet streams and, depending on the time of year, winds can reach up to 100 mph and higher. These freezing winds, along with lowered air pressure, create serious hazards in both ascension and after, descent. Confusion and exhaustion resulting from lack of oxygen is perhaps the most dangerous combination on the mountain. Risk of avalanche, serac collapse, and frostbite are also commonplace. The mountain is also notorious for snow bridges. Seasonal high winds cause these formations over crevasses, creating possible lethal dangers for experienced climbers.
Due to these dangers, the mountain is generally attempted only with local porters. In fact, many inhabitants of the villages surrounding climbing routes, such as Reizigergröf and Teshnava, depend almost entirely on the tourism generated by mountaineers and tourism surrounding geothermic springs. Of the recorded attempts, roughly half are locals.
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